In today’s booming market for antique advertising, vintage signs can command hundreds—or even tens of thousands—of dollars. But with high demand comes a shadowy downside: reproductions and fakes. Whether you’re a first-time seller, casual picker, or seasoned collector, learning how to spot a real sign from a reproduction can protect your wallet—and your reputation.
Here’s a trusted guide to separating the real deals from the modern knock-offs.
🧲 1. Material Matters: Porcelain vs. Tin vs. Aluminum
✅ Real Signs (1920s–1960s):
- Porcelain enamel over steel or iron was the gold standard.
- Heavy and durable with a smooth, glass-like surface.
- Porcelain signs often have multiple layers of color and visible layering in the lettering or logos.
🚩 Reproduction Red Flags:
- Lightweight tin or aluminum, often without enamel.
- Faux patina or rust spots that appear “printed on.”
- Edges that bend too easily or feel sharp from stamping, not aged naturally.
🔤 2. Examine Fonts, Logos & Brand Spelling
Authentic signs feature:
- Period-correct logos, fonts, and artwork.
- High-quality, crisp printing or enamel work.
Reproductions often have:
- Inaccurate logos or brand spellings (e.g., “Texeco” instead of “Texaco”).
- Fonts that are too modern or inconsistent with the brand’s vintage design language.
- Cartoonish or “off” proportions—especially on characters like Sinclair’s Dino or Mobil’s Pegasus.
🕵️♂️ 3. Check the Mounting Holes
Most real signs were designed to be bolted or nailed to a wall, so:
- They have standardized grommet holes around the edges, usually with signs of actual wear (chipping, rust, or flaking around the hole).
- Mounting holes are usually part of the original design, not drilled after the fact.
Fake signs often:
- Lack holes entirely or have perfectly clean, centered drill holes—a sign they were added recently.
- Have rust only near the holes—another red flag of artificial aging.
🧼 4. Surface Wear and Aging Patterns
Authentic signs will age naturally:
- Crazing or spider-web cracks in the porcelain glaze.
- Fading, especially on sun-exposed sides.
- Random chips and edge wear that match the sign’s mounting history.
Reproduction signs may be “aged” artificially with:
- Acid washes or paint-on rust.
- Identical weathering across both sides.
- Rust that doesn’t penetrate—often more visual than structural.
🧾 5. Look for Manufacturer Markings and Dates
Check the bottom edge or corners for:
- Small print markings, such as “Made by A.M. Sign Co.” or “Donaldson Art Sign Co., 1948.”
- Original date stamps or product codes.
If there’s:
- No marking, or
- A marking like “Made in India” or “For Display Only”…
…it’s almost certainly a reproduction.
📚 6. Do Your Homework: Know What Signs Should Exist
Before buying or selling a sign:
- Research the brand’s historical presence—did they exist in the 1940s?
- Cross-reference your sign with auction house archives or collector forums.
- If a design looks too perfect or overly detailed for the time—it probably is.
Pro Tip: Signs with misspelled cities or brand names are almost always fake.
🧠 Bonus: Commonly Reproduced Signs
These signs are heavily reproduced, so approach with extra caution:
- Coca-Cola bottle thermometers
- Mobil Pegasus
- Texaco star logo
- Sinclair Dino signs
- Fire Chief Gasoline
- Phillips 66 shield
- Route 66 and Americana-themed signs
If you see these in “mint condition” for cheap—walk away or verify hard.
💬 When in Doubt, Ask an Expert
Not sure what you have? That’s where we come in. We offer honest, experienced evaluations of antique signs, and we can help you determine:
- Authenticity
- Fair market value
- Whether your sign is better sold, displayed, or held
📩 For Appraisal:
📱 Scan the QR code above to get an automated text with next steps.
📞 Or text or call us directly at 916-817-9625
